Mausoleo di Turabek Khanum

Kunya-Urgench, the medieval Gurganj, was the capital of Khwarazm from the 12th century². Genghis Khan’s army destroyed it in 1221, but it was rebuilt, and ICOMOS notes that it was then described as “the finest city of the Turks”². After the Mongol conquest northern Khwarazm, with Urgench, belonged to the Golden Horde, and in the later 14th century an independent minor dynasty of Qongrat Turks, the Sufis, arose there^2,3,8. Timur’s troops struck the city between 1372 and 1388; in 1388 Timur crushed Sulayman Sufi and razed Urgench^2,8. Local tradition names the mausoleum after Turabek Khanum, wife of the Golden Horde governor Qutlugh Timur and patron of the khanaqah (Sufi lodge) of Shaykh Najm al-Din Kubra³.

No inscription records the patron or the date, and both are disputed^3,5,6. A 2021 press report in Golden Age, the newspaper of Turkmenistan’s state news agency, cites Ibn Battuta’s account of Urgench to date the building to the 1330s, under Qutlugh Timur⁷. The ICOMOS evaluation of 2005 gives 1360-1380 with a question mark; Archnet and IRCICA date it to 1370 as the family tomb of the Sufi dynasty, and Archnet adds that it is thought to hold Husayn Sufi^2,3,4. In 2011 Lisa Golombek argued in the journal Muqarnas that it is neither a foundation of the 1330s nor of the 1370s, but a rebuilding of Timur’s reign after 1388, about 1390-1405^5,6.

ICOMOS calls the mausoleum the largest at Kunya-Urgench and the most elaborate in architectural conception and decoration². Its portal (pishtaq), about 25 m high according to Archnet, encloses a vestibule with smaller rooms on each side³. Behind it stands the domed hall, octagonal inside and twelve-sided outside, with tall niches opening outward^2,3. A high drum, its arched panels filled with turquoise-glazed moulded terracotta, carried a double dome: the tiled inner dome survives, but the outer shell, conical according to ICOMOS, has collapsed except for a few turquoise segments^2,3,4.

Archnet lists the double dome, the tile mosaic and the oversized portal as proto-Timurid features that, with the lack of inscriptions, feed the debate over its attribution³. Reviewing Golombek’s study, Sandra Aube notes that the building is generally seen as a forerunner because of the colour range and quality of its cut-tile mosaic; Golombek also documented tiles painted over and under the glaze and discussed the Iranian craftsmen deported to Khwarazm after Timur’s conquests⁶. Restoration began in the 1980s: in 1983-1993 the walls were repaired and the collapsed northern portal rebuilt, and in a UNDP-funded campaign of 1999-2000 the inner dome and the small side domes were restored and the roof partly rebuilt².

From the portal, the vestibule leads into the main hall, a tall polygonal space under a dome about 9 m across^3,4,7. The underside of the dome is lined with tile mosaic forming a net of stars and polygons with flowers, which ICOMOS describes as extremely refined blue-and-white geometric decoration^2,4,7. Mosaic and muqarnas (stalactite) work also decorate the interior; in 2005 ICOMOS reported that these decorative elements still had problems, though the building’s general condition was stable². The pierced wooden window screens (panjara) were restored and the missing carved wooden doors replaced in 1983-1993⁴.